Since Val d'Aran is separated from the rest of Spain by the Pyrenees, my six-hour winter bus ride from Barcelona was only possible thanks to a 5km-long tunnel through the mountains that opened in 1948. When I arrived, snow capped the mountain tops that surround Vielha, while the buildings, with their pitched roofs, were distinctly different from the flat roofs of Catalonia's capital. All things considered, "remote" seemed like a good descriptor, and surely, I thought, this remoteness was a cause for the survival of the Aranese language.
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